Mountain Days - Clean Sweep

Posted by Jeremy Windsor on Jan 13, 2019

Looking back through last years photos I came across this one taken of Andy Tomlinson during our July trip to Scotland. After three days climbing on the west coast we headed to the Cairngorms. Our target was Clean Sweep on Hell's Lum...

Andy leading the crux third pitch of Clean Sweep (VS 4c) on Hell's Lum

This had been our inspiration...

"About twenty feet up, Marty was in the corner, his right arm and leg stuck in a wide crack. Water could be seen falling steadily from the top edge of the corner. As the whole thing leans to the left, the water fell where Marty wanted to climb. What didn't hit rock, hit him. His right elbow and knee produced water like faulty taps. He was unhappy and wet, but unlikey to retreat unless under the influence of gravity. Above him the wide crack closed, then at forty feet a small roof cut the corner. His meagre supply of nuts had already dwindled significantly. He tried to edge on a crack to the left. The foot edged but the boot crept. He went up and down, fought and cursed and struggled with his conscience, but eventually got lodged on ledges below the roof. Crossing it went fairly smoothly, then the crack and corner continued to another steepening. Again sporadic movement and noises, until he disappeared. The rope trickled out slowly, until there was no more and it was my turn..."

"Clean Sweep" by Allen Fyffe in Classic Rock.

Fortunately the weather was dry!

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